Mozzarella/kesong puti and capers stuffed kalabasa/zucchini blossoms

Once considered "poor man's food" the kabocha or kalabasa blossoms as we know it has evolved in the culinary world. The Italians have served the blossoms as part of the meal for centuries. Stuffed with anything that is available in the Italian garden, it varies from mushrooms to ground meats. In the Philippines, my introduction was in an Ilokano dish which I savor to this day which was "inabraw" style - boiled with several veggies and seasoned with fish bagoong.
Today, the humble zucchini is served stuffed and deep fried. This is one version of the dish that I have used incorporating native ingredients like kesong puti or buffalo mozzarella. The twist is the inclusion of capers in the recipe.





12 zucchini or pumpkin blossoms
1.75 oz buffalo mozzarella/kesong puti - soften
1.75 oz cream cheese softened
2 tbsp capers (small)
Sea salt
Black pepper (ground)

1 egg (yolk and white separated)
1 cup flour
¼ cup cornstarch
1 to 2 cups beer – pilsen

Combine the yolk, the mozzarella, cream cheese, capers, a touch of salt and pepper in a mixing bowl and mix until it is slightly pasty.
Depending on the length of the zucchini stem you may need to cut some off, leave approx 4 cm (2 inches) attached to the flower.
Careful not to tear the blossoms, gently open up the zucchini or kabocha flowers and gently spoon the cheese mixture into the flowers and fill 2/3rds full.
Gently push the remaining air out of the flowers and squeeze the tips of the petals back together

Batter:

Sift the flour and corn starch into a large mixing bowl, add a pinch of salt and pepper and make a well in the centre.
Slowly pour some of beer into the well and whisk as you add, slowly moving the whisk out from the well to incorporate more flour until the entire mixture is fluid and thick (it may not require all the beer, so add it slowly).
Whisk the egg white until frothy and fold into the batter mixture

Frying

Gently coat the flowers with the batter by dragging it in top of the mixture, after which turn the flowers down to allow the batter to seal it. Fry in vegetable oil which has been heated over medium high heat. Sprinkle sea salt immediately after and serve with lemon wedges on the side.

Sapodilla or Chico or Chiku - Asian Fruit Recipe

Travelling in Southern California last year, I am always on the look-out for good places to photograph. I chanced upon a Mission - yes those set-up by the Spanish missionaries in California. This one had a fruit bearing tree in the yard, its fruit left to rot in the ground where they fell. Inspecting it closely, since the leaves looked quite familiar, I then realized that it was the sapodilla tree commonly known in the Philippines as chico or chiku in other parts of South Asia. What confirmed it was the distinctive scent of the flesh and its seed with its uncommon hook. Lest we forget, we were warned on numerous occassions by our grandmother to be careful when eating chico - or suffer a slashed throat should one swallow its seed unknowingly.
My introduction to the fruit was by my Grandmother - Dona Pilar Gregorio Castillo - the very person who inspired me to become a chef. Yes, she was and I know still is my guide. It was in our ancestral home on Northern Luzon - Pangasinan that I first encountered the chico fruit. My grandparent's home was surrounded by various fruit trees - star apple, mabolo, mango of course, the chico and one that I could not bare to eat - the chessa. We enjoyed fresh fruit - tree ripened - what a way to partake of nature's and God's blessings.
Few chefs use the chico or sapodilla as ingredients in their recipes so I thought I would start with a simple one. Use it in a supporting role for dessert.
So here it is, hope you take time to try the humble chico in dessert and enjoy its subtle but complex flavor.



Rum-Spiked Grilled Pineapple with Toasted Coconut over Sapodilla compote and Banana Chips.



Ingredients

For the Spiked Pineapple:

1/4 cup packed light brown sugar
1/4 cup dark rum
1 pineapple, peeled, cored, and sliced crosswise or use the canned variety to save energy
½ segment star anise
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons sweetened coconut, toasted
Low-fat vanilla ice cream or coconut ice cream

Combine the star anise, sugar and rum in a pan. Over low heat let sugar dissolve and simmer for 1 1/2 minutes or until sugar dissolves. Brush rum mixture evenly over pineapple wedges.
Heat butter in a grill pan over medium-high heat. Add pineapple; grill 3 minutes on each side or until grill marks form and pineapple is thoroughly heated. Set aside



Sapodilla compote:

1 ¼ cup good red wine
¾ cup brown sugar
1 cup diced ripe sapodilla flesh (skin removed)
Juice of 1 lemon
1 bay leaf
1 segment star anise
1 cinnamon stick or ¼ tsp powdered cinnamon

On a non reactive pan boil red wine, then add brown sugar, lemon juice, bay leaf, star anise and cinnamon. When the sugar is dissolved add the sapodilla. Simmer for about 15 minutes until the fruit is dissolved into the liquid. You might help it by using a fork to press the fruit. Strain through a fine sieve and keep warm.

Assembly:

Get a scoop of good vanilla ice cream or my favorite is coconut ice cream. Place in bowl, top with the pineapple slices and insert several banana chips. Drizzle the sapodilla compote over the ice cream. Sprinkle with sweet coconut flakes that have been lightly toasted.

Enjoy!

The Original Chawan Mushi Recipe

This original recipe was requested by a friend and she suggested that I posted it to follow-up on the original post of Green Onion Custard. I thought that it made sense should one be not too adventurous to try the Green Onion recipe. So here's the Chawan Mushi recipe

Ingredients:

3 eggs - large (4 if using small eggs)
1 2/3 cups bonito stock (you can use the instant bonito powder instead of real flakes)
1 Tbsp mirin (use 1 tsp salt if not available - this isnt so important)
1 Tbsp light shoyu (1/2 Tbsp if using regular shoyu)
2 tsp sake or sherry wine or white cooking wine

Nuggets you can use as filling:
sliced cooked shrimp
pumpkin - cooked and diced - to give it an earthy taste
crab chucks
shiitake mushrooms - thinly sliced
chicken breast fillet
Corn - yes I used sweet corn with a bit of everything above


Directions:
Break the eggs into the bowl, to minimize bubbles in the final product, do not beat the eggs but very gently stir them with a chopstick in a slicing action.
Add the rest of the custard ingredients to the egg mixture. When everything is incorporated, strain through a fine sieve. The next step is to your liking, place whatever ingredients you want to add into the custard - chicken, prawns, mushroom, etc. I tried using a sliver of salted duck egg and it was delish.

Pour the custard into cups or ramekins but do not top. Leave enough room for the custard to expand. Cover with lids or aluminum foil. Steam the cups over high heat then at 10 mins, check for doneness. To test, insert a bamboo stick into the custard, if a clear liquid flows it is done. Try not to overcook the chawanmushi or it will become bland and the broth will separate from the egg.

Enjoy


NEXT: Sapodilla Fruit Known in the Philippines as CHICO

Green Onion Custard with Bacon, fried spinach and Miso Broth

This is a stunning recipe which is a riff on the tradional Japanese Egg Custard Chawan Mushi. Chawan Mushi is one of my favorite side dish when I crave for Japanese food. Its a cross between custard and soup - on the savory side. It is served both hot and cold, but I prefer it right out of the steamer - almost to burn your tongue. Chawan mushi roughly translated means "steamed in a teacup". I usually have it at Kamameshi House in Westborough South San Francisco. The dish is ordered 30 minutes ahead of time, much like their Kamameshi (rice dish). The custard is usually a combination of ingredients, tiny nuggets of poultry,seafood like shrimp or white fish, carrots, mushrooms and gingko nuts. Pleasant secret treasures hidden inside as you work your way through the custard and broth.
This is a kicked-up version of the custard - with a twist

Custard:
1/3 cup minced green onions (both white and green parts)
1 1/4 cup chicken stock
1 large egg
1/4 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup milk
pinch of grated nutmeg
fresh ground pepper
3 tablespoons creme fraiche or sour cream
1/3 cup bacon diced
5 tbsp cold butter
bunch of spinach leaves paper dried
1 tablespoon miso

In a small skillet cook the diced bacon until lightly browned - remove from the pan into paper towels to drain the fat. Set aside for later

In another skillet, combine two (2) tablespoons of the butter with the green onions. Cover and cook until softened over low heat, about 12 minutes. Transfer to a blender, add 1/4 cup of the chicken stock and then puree. In a bowl, whisk the egg, then whisk in the half and half, milk and onion puree. Ensure that no bubbles are formed otherwise, it will spoil the presentation of the custard. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/8 pepper and the nutmeg.
Meanwhile butter four 8 ounce coffee mugs or ramekins. Slowly pour the onion mixture and cover with plastic wrap.

Using a rack in a large pot, add water to reach under the rack and bring to a boil. Set the ramekins on the rack and steam (covered) over low heat until the custards are barely set about 18 minutes. Try not to overcook the custard or it will be tasteless.
Chiffonade the spinach into strips, then fry them in small batches in hot vegetable oil until crispy. Drain in paper towels - set aside

Meanwhile, in a saucepan bring the 1 cup of the remaining chicken stock to a boil. Whisk in the creame fraiche or sour cream, miso and simmer over low heat for 3 minutes, stirring constantly to avoid the cream from separating. Turn off the heat then gradually incorporate the butter into the broth by using a whisk. check the seasoning, at this time not much salt is needed due to the miso.

When the custards are done, remove the plastic wrap. Scatter the bacon and spinach strips on top. Serve the custard and pour the miso soup.

Enjoy!!!

Soft Pretzel ala Auntie Anne's

As a routine, I try to watch movies as a manner of relaxation. Its great, gets your mind of things plus you enjoy a couple of hours being entertained by either a cartoon movie or one of those spy thrillers. Last Sunday, the movie I chose was Bolt in 3D. When I entered the theatre strange looking glasses were handed to us, making us looking like Dexter the cartoon character. Technology is amazing – it really does the trick! The movie in 3D was great and so was the story. But this is a food blog. I will now reveal the reason for the introduction.
What is a movie without a snack? But now a days, these treats will cost you an arm and a leg. A snack and a drink will cost you close to $10 and they price it so that you are forced to order the large size – what with only $.25 cents difference, only a fool would order the medium size. But there are those who do, you know who you are!
One of the new ones that the theaters offer are those delectable pretzel bites!
Similar to those that are offered by the famous franchise Aunt Annie’s but in tiny two bite sizes. Dipped in melted cheese, yummmmm.
I love soft pretzels, but it too will cost you a fortune to have one with a drink. Of course, one is not enough to satisfy you which means you end up getting a savory and a sweet variety. Add to that the cost of a tall drink and whamo you are $11 poorer. So what did I do? Find a good recipe to at least replicate the one Auntie Anne’s offer.
Here’s my crack at it, tried it a few times and boy, it does work. Just don’t soak it in the baking soda bath for too long.
You will need:
1 ½ cups warm water
1 package active dry yeast (or 1 ¼ tsp)
1 tsp salt (not iodized)
2 tbsp brown sugar
3 cups ordinary flour
1 cup bread flour
2 cups warm water
½ cup baking soda
4 tbsp melted butter

Directions:
Sprinkle the yeast on the lukewarm water in a mixing bowl, stir with a wooden spoon then add the sugar and salt and stirring to dissolve further.
Wait at least two minutes before adding both flours and knead dough until smooth. Set in bowl, cover with a damp (not dripping) towel and rest for at least 40 minutes. Let the dough rise!!

Prepare the baking soda bath. Combine the 2 cups warm water and ½ cup baking soda. Ensure that the baking soda is almost completely dissolved. Cut pieces of the dough and roll into either bite sized pieces or the traditional pretzel forms. Its up to you. Dip the pretzel dough into the baking soda bath then dry the bottom of the dough in a towel before moving it into a greased baking sheet. Allow to rise for a few minutes before baking in a pre-heated 450 degree oven. This will take about 10 minutes or until its golden brown. Brush with the melted butter and enjoy!

I usually dip mine in Cheez Whiz or in Ranch Dressing or sprinkled with garlic powder. If you want it sweet, combine cinnamon and sugar and dip the pretzel in it.

Enjoy!

PS - right after baking brush with melted butter, sprinkle with garlic powder, then dip in cheez whiz - so yummy. The garlic powder gives the cheese that extra flavor layer. Try experimenting with onion powder in place of garlic. But garlic is good!

Tilapia - has risen the ranks

The lowly tilapia - once considered commoner's food is now making the rounds of the gourment world. This fish is now served prominently alongside great dishes in menus of distinctive dining places throughout North America. It has finally been accepted by distinguished chefs including it in their offerings.
An excellent source of protein, this fish also has low mercury content unlike the farmed salmon or tuna or mackarel. (Yes, there are fish varieties out there that will provide your mercury poison if you are unaware. This is an upcoming topic in a future blog)
Here is a simple recipe for tilapia - but with a twist (a common theme in my recipes if you havent noticed) It is served with corn fondue - a deviation from serving it with tartar sauce - a sauce of the past!!!

Tilapia with Lemon and Capers

Tilapia fillets
Flour
Sea Salt
White pepper
Capers
Lemon – sliced thin (crosswise) about 5-8 pieces
Olive oil
Butter

Season the fillets with salt and pepper, leave in the refrigerator for at least an hour.
After allowing the fillets to absorb the seasonings, dredge the fillets in flour. Shake off the excess flour.
Fry the lemon slices in the olive oil for about 5 minutes, remove the lemon slices from the pan
Fry the fillets in olive oil that was used to fry the lemon slices. Cook until light brown but do not overcook or the fillet will turn out dry.
When all the fillets have been fried, remove from pan. In the same pan, return the fried lemons, add about 2-3 tablespoons of butter and about 1 tsp of capers. Allow the juices to evaporate but do not allow the butter to brown too much.
Remove from heat and spoon the sauce over the tilapia fillets. Top with the lemon slices.
Accompaniment –Traditionally, breaded fillets of fish are served with tartar sauce which is too boring. I prefer the sweet fondue that I have created. Adjust according to your taste. I dip the tilapia in the corn fondue – it gives it a different flavor accent.
Serve with a nice crusty baguette or buttered rice on the side.


Sweet Corn Fondue


Ingredients
1 cup cooked tender corn, slightly crushed
1 small red onion or shallot, chopped
1/4 red bell pepper, minced
2 level tablespoons plain flour
¼ cup milk
200 grams parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
salt and pepper to taste


Heat the olive oil in low-medium heat, then add the butter. Sweat the onion and bell pepper until fragrant. Add the tender corn – cook for about 3 minutes then gradually add the milk until it is heated through. Sprinkle the cheese – continuing to stir until incorporated. Slowly add the flour until the sauce is thickened. (You will not need all of the flour) Adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper.